Nosy Be: Madagascar's Tropical Island of Lemurs and Vanilla

What Makes Nosy Be Madagascar Special

Nosy Be is a volcanic island 8 kilometers off Madagascar's northwest coast, measuring roughly 26 by 20 kilometers. The name translates to "big island" in Malagasy, which is accurate relative to the dozens of smaller islands scattered around it. Nosy Be Madagascar is the country's primary beach tourism hub, and it functions as a gateway to some of the Indian Ocean's most biodiverse marine environments.

The island produces most of the world's ylang-ylang essential oil. Walk anywhere on nosy be madagascar and the sweet floral scent hangs in the air, mixing with vanilla, cinnamon, and frangipani from the island's plantations. This is a place that engages every sense — the electric blue of the water, the shriek of black lemurs in the canopy, the taste of zebu steak with green peppercorn sauce.

Getting to Nosy Be Madagascar

International Flights

Fascene Airport (NOS) receives direct flights from several cities. Air Austral flies from Reunion Island (2 hours). Ethiopian Airlines connects through Addis Ababa. Air Madagascar operates domestic flights from Antananarivo (1 hour, $150-250 one way) and seasonal international routes. During European winter (November-March), charter flights arrive from Italy, France, and Germany.

From Mainland Madagascar

Ferries run from Ankify on the mainland to Nosy Be's Hell-Ville port (1 hour, MGA 25,000-40,000 / $5.50-8.80). The road from Antananarivo to Ankify is 600 kilometers and takes 14-18 hours by car — domestic flights are strongly recommended. Speed boats from Ankify cost MGA 80,000-100,000 ($17.60-22) per person and take 30-40 minutes.

Beaches of Nosy Be

Andilana Beach

Andilana occupies the northern tip of Nosy Be and is consistently ranked among Africa's best beaches. The sand is white and fine, the water clear turquoise, and the beach faces west for reliable sunsets. Most of Nosy Be's upscale resorts cluster here. Beach access is free, though resort sections may restrict lounger use to guests. A plate of grilled prawns at a beachside shack costs MGA 35,000-50,000 ($7.70-11).

Madirokely Beach

Madirokely is the island's most popular public beach, a 500-meter stretch near the tourist center of Ambatoloaka. The sand is golden rather than white. Restaurants, bars, and dive shops line the road behind the beach. This is where backpackers, mid-range travelers, and locals mix. The water is calm and shallow for 50 meters out, making it good for families.

Ambatoloaka Beach

South of Madirokely, Ambatoloaka has a slightly grittier feel with more nightlife and budget accommodation. The beach itself is smaller but the snorkeling off the rocks at the southern end is rewarding, with anemonefish, lionfish, and octopus in shallow water.

Island-Hopping from Nosy Be Madagascar

Nosy Komba

Nosy Komba ("island of lemurs") sits 4 kilometers south of Nosy Be. Pirogue boats make the crossing in 20-30 minutes (MGA 30,000-50,000 / $6.60-11 round trip). The island has no cars and no paved roads. Black lemurs — the males are jet black, females brown with orange eyes — approach visitors for banana handouts at the village of Ampangorinana. The lemur encounters feel slightly staged, but the animals are genuinely wild and unconfined. Embroidered tablecloths are the local craft specialty, sold at fair prices (MGA 20,000-80,000 / $4.40-17.60) directly by the women who make them.

Nosy Tanikely Marine Park

This tiny island 10 kilometers south of nosy be madagascar is a protected marine reserve (entry MGA 50,000 / $11 for foreigners). The snorkeling is exceptional — sea turtles, parrotfish, butterflyfish, moray eels, and soft corals in 2-10 meters of gin-clear water. Hawksbill and green turtles are present year-round and remarkably unfazed by snorkelers. Boat trips from Nosy Be include the park fee and usually lunch on the island (MGA 100,000-150,000 / $22-33 total).

Nosy Iranja

Two islands connected by a 2-kilometer sandbar that appears at low tide, 50 kilometers southwest of Nosy Be. Day trips by speedboat take 90 minutes each way (MGA 250,000-350,000 / $55-77 per person all-inclusive). Hawksbill turtles nest on the smaller island from October to January. The sandbar walk — warm water on both sides, white sand underfoot — is one of Madagascar's most photographed scenes.

Diving and Snorkeling

Nosy Be Madagascar has over 40 mapped dive sites ranging from 8 to 40+ meters. The water temperature holds at 26-30°C year-round, and visibility peaks at 20-35 meters from September to December. Two-tank dives cost $70-90. PADI Open Water certification runs $400-500.

Key sites include Greg's Pipe (a volcanic chimney at 32 meters hosting giant frogfish and leaf scorpionfish), Ankarea (a shallow reef with green turtles and eagle rays), and the wreck of a trawler near Nosy Sakatia colonized by soft corals and nudibranchs. Whale sharks pass through from October to December, and humpback whales migrate along the coast from July to September. Several dive operators run whale watching excursions during this period for MGA 200,000-300,000 ($44-66).

Lemurs, Chameleons, and the Sacred Trees

Lokobe National Park covers the remaining fragment of original forest on nosy be madagascar's southeastern corner. Guided walks (MGA 50,000 / $11 park fee plus MGA 30,000-50,000 / $6.60-11 for a guide) take 2-3 hours through dense tropical forest where you'll find black lemurs, Nosy Be sportive lemurs, leaf-tailed geckos, and panther chameleons. The chameleons are extraordinary — males display neon greens, blues, and oranges that change depending on mood and temperature.

The sacred banyan tree (Ficus religiosa) near Mahatsinjo village is a pilgrimage site for Sakalava people. Visitors are welcome but must remove shoes and cover shoulders. Rum, honey, and coins are left as offerings at the base of the tree's massive aerial roots. The tree is estimated at 200-300 years old.

Where to Stay on Nosy Be

Budget

Home Hotel in Ambatoloaka offers clean rooms from MGA 80,000-120,000 ($17.60-26.40) per night. Chez Eugenie has bungalows near Madirokely from MGA 60,000 ($13.20). Gerard et Francine is a guesthouse with a loyal repeat-visitor following, rooms from MGA 100,000 ($22) including breakfast.

Mid-Range

Vanilla Hotel & Spa sits above Ambatoloaka with pool and ocean views, rooms from $80/night. L'Heure Bleue Hotel on Madirokely Beach has beachfront bungalows from $100/night. Ravintsara Wellness Hotel combines eco-lodge design with spa treatments, from $90/night.

Luxury

Andilana Beach Resort is a 4-star Italian-run resort with all-inclusive packages from $200/night. Royal Beach Hotel on Andilana beach charges $250-400/night with a private beach section and three restaurants. For the ultimate splurge, Tsara Komba Lodge on neighboring Nosy Komba offers thatched villas from $350/night with full board, kayaks, and guided lemur walks. Check our hotel guide for comparisons and booking tips.

Food and Practical Information

Nosy Be's cuisine blends Malagasy, French, and Indian Ocean influences. Romazava (beef and greens stew, MGA 15,000-25,000 / $3.30-5.50) is the national dish. Grilled zebu steak with green peppercorn sauce (MGA 30,000-45,000 / $6.60-9.90) appears on most restaurant menus. Seafood platters — lobster, prawns, crab, and fish — cost MGA 60,000-100,000 ($13.20-22) and are worth every ariary.

Three Horses Beer (THB) is the national lager at MGA 5,000-8,000 ($1.10-1.76). Rhum arrangé — local rum infused with vanilla, lychee, or cinnamon — is sold in bottles at shops and markets (MGA 15,000-25,000 / $3.30-5.50). The local vanilla is some of the world's finest; buy pods at the market in Hell-Ville (MGA 2,000-5,000 / $0.44-1.10 per pod, far cheaper than export prices).

The best time to visit nosy be madagascar is April to November (dry season). December to March brings heavy rains and cyclone risk. Currency is the Malagasy ariary (MGA); bring euros or dollars to exchange. ATMs exist in Hell-Ville but are unreliable — bring cash backup. Madagascar National Parks has updated park fees and hours for Lokobe and other reserves.