About Samoa
Samoa is the Pacific Islands without the resort markup. These two main islands, Upolu and Savai'i, are volcanic, lush, and fiercely proud of fa'a Samoa, the Samoan way, which governs everything from village life to how you're expected to behave as a visitor. The natural swimming holes here are otherworldly: the To Sua Ocean Trench is a 30-meter deep hole in the volcanic rock connected to the ocean by an underground cave, and it looks like a cenote dreamed up by a fantasy novelist. Lalomanu Beach on Upolu's south coast regularly makes best-beach-in-the-Pacific lists, with open-air fale accommodations right on the sand for about $60 USD a night. Savai'i is wilder, with blowholes, lava fields, and villages where Sunday church singing echoes across the lagoon. A plate of oka, Samoa's raw fish in coconut cream, costs about $8 at the Apia fish market and rivals any ceviche you've ever had.